Snapshots and stories from Jessica Kelly's work and adventures with the Western Heads East Project from May - August 2008 in Mwanza, Tanzania.

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Field Trip Weekend

Saturday morning, Sabrina, Osama and I went for a little field trip with the Yogurt Mamas. The Yogurt Mamas sell their yogurt in bulk quantities to Shaloom (an HIV care house here in Mwanza) so we were all invited to attend the Shaloom Youth Centre’s Talent Show. We asked Mama Joyce to arrange a daladala to transport all of us there, but I did not have high hopes for attendance from the Yogurt Mamas. My did they prove me wrong – eight of the ten mamas came and in matching pink outfits no less! The MC included the Yogurt Mamas in his introductions of special guests, so they were able to receive some recognition for all the hard work they do.

All the performances were great, but as with any event the audience is often as fascinating as the show itself. One particular young girl, sitting in a blue child-size lawnchair, caught my eye. She had brought her little twin brothers to watch the show, but both were a little tuckered partway through the performance. From her little plastic chair, this remarkable little girl (like some many African kids) doubled as a parent…amazing.

Sunday we spent the day at Tunza Lodge – very reminiscent of a day at the cottage in Snug Harbour. After breakfast we went out wakeboarding, and despite being a year out of practice, I managed to get up on my first try. I can now check “wakeboard in lake where crocodiles live” off my list of personal challenges! Later, Jan (the owner of Tunza) took us out to a very cool rock peninsula. Here are Sabrina and I in the rock den.

My inner Georgian Bay kid decided it was essential to climb to the highest rock, so with Jan’s help we went exploring. Here I am pondering my next move –this is about the time I decided to get serious and lose the purse!

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Top 5 of the Week

5. Discovering that denim is tasty...
4. Freckle incident...

On Friday I was leaning against the counter at a little book shop. All of a sudden the female shopkeeper started rubbing my forearm. Then she pointed to a freckle on my arm and asked "what is this?" It was a good reminder of how the smallest of differences can be so intriguing.

3. Lake Victoria sunset at Thursday night yoga...

2. English lessons with the Yogurt Mamas...

On Wednesday afternoon Sabrina and I visisted the yogurt kitchen to do an English lesson with the Yogurt Mamas. We had just gone through a list of basic verbs, so I was asking the Mamas to construct basic sentences. I was hoping for something along the lines of "Jessica cooks rice." Instead, Mama Elizabeth comes up with "Tomorrow I will go to town to buy kenga [fabric] to sew a blouse." Wow!

1. Water fight...

On Thursday evening we invited our housekeeper Pendo to have dinner with us. We insisted that she was the guest and was not allowed to do dishes (with minimal success). Lesson learned: don't try to stop Pendo from doing dishes; she will start a water fight and you will lose.

Sunday, July 6, 2008

“HAPANA!” & Other Adventures of the Week

It’s the end of another busy, yet wonderful week here in Mwanza. With the addition of two new roommates (Jaimie and Sabrina) we now have four Canadians in our apartment, so we had some mini festivities in honour of Canada Day. At breakfast we did a wonderful rendition of “O Canada” and then during dinner (of poutine and red cake) we compiled our Canadian music for a little canuck medley.
We are progressing, slowly but surely, on our work at the yogurt kitchen. Our case study is nearly completed, and we are laying the groundwork for helping the Yogurt Mamas with their business plan. This week they changed the pricing of their yogurt to more accurately reflect the cost of production – a change that was well overdue. Ruben and Jaimie are doing a clinical trial about the effects of probiotic yogurt on the health of HIV/AIDS patients, so the Yogurt Mamas have ramped up production in order to supply the yogurt for the study participants. The extra yogurt accumulating in the fridges seems to have been the little push they needed to get out into the city and seek out new customers. They made one delivery to a first-time customer on Friday of 20 litres! At this rate, the Yogurt Mamas will be expert businesswomen in no time!

With about 10 hours of Swahili lessons under my belt, I’ve gotten pretty comfortable making purchases and bargaining for prices. Beautiful fabric is sold in hundreds of shops here, so it has become my spontaneous purchase of choice. On my way to Swahili lesson on Monday, some pink fabric caught my eye so I bought it. I didn’t really have time to haggle the price, nor was I that concerned about the 75 cent price difference it would make. Wow…was that a mistake! At home I took my fabric out of the package to show Sabrina and Pendo (our housekeeper) took it from me to inspect. She was quite distraught that my fabric was of substandard quality and even more upset that I had paid the “wazungu” (foreigner/white person) price. She insisted, in Swahili of course, that I go back to the store and get new fabric. When I suggested that I would go “kesho” (the next day) she yelled “HAPANA!” (No). So needless to say, I had to go back and switch my fabric. Lesson learned: don’t show Pendo your purchases and if she asks what you paid, lie by 20%.

Yesterday Sabrina and I visited the Forever Angels baby orphanage again. Many of the babies at the orphanage are there simply because their parents cannot cover the high expenses of an infant, so it is not uncommon that the children are eventually returned to their birth parents. Therefore it is quite common for parents to visit the orphanage (or even be employed by the orphanage), so they can continue to spend time with their child. One mother visited yesterday, but it was definitely not the idyllic picture I had imagined. The mother looked nothing like a mother. She was in fact a child herself – timid, petite, only 14 years old. I’ve heard many stories about young mothers here in Africa, but age is just a number until you see a face. It was just one of those situations that fills you with so many different emotions that you aren’t really sure what they all are.

On a happier note, my sunglasses provided endless entertainment for the kids!
Aside from these highlights, life is as usual here in Mwanza. When I first arrived here, someone warned me to take photos of everything in the first few weeks, as things would cease to surprise me. They were absolutely right – it’s amazing how quickly everything starts to seem normal. For the benefit of those at home in Canada, I have compiled a few photos of what I mean by “life as usual”…
Jaimie buying a snack

Down the street from City Hall

Construction in Mwanza (note the scaffolding of tree trunks)


Mwanza style transportation...

“Daladalas”, Mwanza’s public transportation, are these little vans. Having over 20 people in one is not out of the ordinary.

And yes, that is a bicycle towering with plastic pitchers

And yes, that woman is carrying a sewing machine on her head